Paelo (Thai braised pork shank)

I blogged about this dish back in 2007, when I had a whopping 3 readers. Now that I have a few more, I figure it's time to update this recipe. It most definitely deserves more attention than it got back then.

As a child, paelo was one of my favorite foods, and I would beg mom to make it about as often as most kids beg for mac and cheese or pizza. Of course, it took significantly more time than mac and cheese. Mom would start this stew on Saturday or Sunday morning, and although it didn't take more than 3 or 4 hours, she'd let it chill on the stovetop until dinner. The house would smell like star anise and sweet soy sauce all day. Heavenly.

As it turns out, just about every Asian culture has its own version of paelo. They may use a different cut of fatty pork, different seasonings or omit the eggs, but the result is still the same, a sweet-savory soy-based broth and fall-off-the-bone tender pork that screams comfort food! This is a wonderfully easy, if not quick, dish. It's definitely worth trying if you're looking for something you won't find at your local Thai restaurant, and I promise that adults and kids alike will love it.

Note that the distinctive flavor of this dish comes from thick soy sauce. At least the Thai version is thick. I believe the Chinese version is called black soy sauce and is thin, but both versions have the same sweet, subtle molasses flavor. If you don't have thick soy sauce, take a trip to your local SE Asian market because regular soy sauce alone will not give you the proper flavor.

Palm sugar, garlic, ginger, star anise and cinnamon. I think star anise is one of the most beautiful spices to photograph.

Paelo (Thai braised pork shank) with chili vinegar sauce
serves 4

For the pork shanks:

• 2 pork meaty shanks with skin
• 3 or 4 coriander roots, crushed (if available)
• 4 cloves garlic, crushed
• 1 knob ginger, cut into thick slices
• 2 star anise
• 1 3-inch stick cinnamon
• 2 to 3 tbs thick soy sauce
• 2 to 3 tbs thin soy (regular soy sauce is fine)
• palm sugar (brown sugar works), to taste ( I used about 1-2 tbs)
• fish sauce, to season before serving (optional, but highly recommended)
• 1 quart chicken stock + 1 cup water (all water is also fine)
• 4 to 6 hard-boiled eggs, shelled

For the sauce:

• fresh chilies, chopped
• 1/3 cup rice vinegar
• 1/2 to 1 tsp sugar
• splash of fish sauce

In a Dutch oven or heavy bottom pot, heat 2 tbs oil and brown the shanks well. Remove and set aside. (Alternatively, you can brown the shanks in the oven at 400F for about 30 minutes, or until the shanks looked seared.) In the same pot saute the coriander roots, garlic and ginger. After about a minute, add the anise and cinnamon. Saute for another minute, then add the stock, water, soy sauces. Return the shanks to the pot and bring to a boil. Once it boils, cover and turn the heat down to low. Simmer until the meat is tender, about 2-3 hours depending on how big they are. (Alternatively, you can braise in a 325F oven until tender. Or, if you're impatient or feeling eco-friendly, use a pressure cooker. It will cut the time in half or even by 2/3). At this point, you can add the hard-boiled eggs and simmer for an additional 10-15 minutes before serving. However, you may want to separate out the fat, of which a significant amount will accumulate. (We are talking pork shank, after all.) Do this part after the stew has had time to cool. You'll significantly cut down on the fat without sacrificing any flavor. Once I remove some of the fat, I like to boil down the liquid a bit to further concentrate the flavor. This is optional. As with any stew or braised dish, I recommend letting this sit for a day or more to allow the flavors to marry, but this is also optional.

The dipping sauce is a must here. It adds spiciness, but, more importantly, cuts the sweetness of the broth. To make the chili sauce, combine all the ingredients, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Adjust by adding more sugar or fish sauce according to taste.

Serve with steamed jasmine rice and dipping sauce. In case you're wondering whether to eat the skin...yes! At least a little bit. Just take a big hunk of meat with some skin and chop it with a cleaver. Lay the meat atop the rice and ladle a little broth on top. A side of sour pickled mustard greens is also nice or maybe a easy stir-fry of Chinese mustard greens. In a pinch, kale would also work. The slight bitterness compliments the sweetness of the broth beautifully!

Enjoy!

Thai Simmered Pumpkin with Egg

When I saw Heather’s post on simmered Japanese pumpkin, I was reminded of a simmered pumpkin dish my mom makes. When I told Mom I was going to blog about it, she laughed. "They’re not going to want that,"she said. Whenever she says they, she means non-Thais. She has lived in the US for 30 years now, and although Thai food is immensely popular, she is under the impression that most Americans wouldn’t care for any of the simple foods we eat at home.



Mom is absolutely right in saying this is a simple dish, but it is very comforting as well. I think anyone can appreciate that. This was the first time I made it myself, and as I sat eating it, I was momentarily transported back to Mom’s kitchen. I can’t remember the last time that happened to me. That alone is enough to make it worth blogging about.

Soy Simmered Pumpkin with Egg
Serves 3 to 4

• 1 pound pumpkin (or your favorite winter squash), peeled and cut into chunks
• 2 eggs
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 bunch Thai basil, leaves only (optional)
• 1 tbs oyster sauce
• 3 tbs thin soy sauce
• 1 to 2 tsp sugar (palm sugar, if available)
• 1 to 2 tsp thick soy sauce (optional)
• 1 cup water
• 3 green onions, chopped into 1 to 2 inch segments

Heat a wok or medium-sized pot (with a lid) over medium heat. When hot, add about 2 tbs oil. Add the garlic and half of the basil leaves, if using. Sauté briefly. Add the eggs, scrambling in the pot. When the eggs are just set, add the pumpkin and sauté for about a minute. Add the oyster sauce, soy sauces, sugar and water, stirring to mix well. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat all the way down to a simmer. Cover and simmer until the pumpkin is just tender, about 20 minutes. Adjust to taste as necessary with more soy, sugar or water. Add the green onions and turn off the heat. Let the pot sit covered for about 5 minutes. Just before serving, garnish with the remaining Thai basil leaves.

With a dish like this, serve with a spicy dipping sauce on the side. This is easily made by combining an equal volume of lime juice (or white vinegar) with fish sauce adding sugar and either fresh chilies or chili garlic sauce to taste. Another good accompaniment would be salted crispy fried fish. No salted crispy fried fish? Pan-fried kippers are a good replacement for the flavor. Just pan-fry the kippers until they are slightly crispy and dry-looking. Don’t worry, they won't really be dry! And of course you’ll need plenty of steamed jasmine rice too.