Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Tasty Tomato Jam

February is apparently the month for pizza making. Seemed like every time I checked my reader, someone had posted something about pizza. With a month’s worth of inspiration, I had pizza on the brain, so we made pizzas on Sunday night. And they were good, but I don’t really want to talk about pizzas, per se. Instead I’m going to talk about tomato jam, which is what we used instead of traditional pizza sauce.



I’ve had versions that are overly sweet and didn’t care much for them. In my opinion, the perfect tomato jam is both sweet and sour. I can’t recall ever seeing tomato jam in stores (although I’ve never really looked). Luckily, it’s not difficult to make but does require about an hour's time (mostly passive). But it’s time well spent because this stuff is delicious.

Tomato Jam with Sun-dried Tomatoes
Makes about 2 cups
  • 1 cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained and chopped
  • 1 shallot, thinly sliced
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 4 to 5 tbs sugar, to taste
  • 14.5 oz can diced tomatoes
  • 2 to 3 tbs red wine vinegar
  • ½ cup water
  • ½ to 1 tsp kosher salt, to taste
  • 3 or 4 sprigs thyme (optional)
In a medium pot, sauté the sun-dried tomatoes with the shallot and garlic over medium-low heat until the shallot is soft, about 8 to 10 minutes. Sun-dried tomatoes burn pretty easily, so don’t crank up the heat and stir it occasionally. Add the remaining ingredients and bring it up to a boil, cover and reduce the heat to a simmer. Allow the mixture to simmer covered for ½ hour. Remove the lid and turn up the heat a little to get the liquid to evaporate off faster. Cook until the mixture reaches the consistency of jam. Store in a clean, airtight container in the fridge for up to 1week. This is also perfect for canning, if you are experienced with that sort of thing.

I like to use this jam for pizza, on top of poached or over-medium eggs, in turkey or roast beef sandwiches, on crostini with a slice of hard sheep’s milk cheese, on the side served with grilled or roasted meats…the possibilities are endless!

Sunday, February 17, 2008

Spicy Shrimp and Pomelo Salad


Could it be? Is Spring coming early this year? Today it was just above 60 F and I swear people were walking around in shorts. I spent the day working in my garden. The snow peas are planted. The cilantro is planted. I laid down landscaping tarp to control them pesky weeds. Here in Portland, they grow like nobody’s business and no matter how much elbow grease I put into it, after about a week of warm weather, my garden is overrun. I also started my indoor seeds. This year I’m growing my own Thai sweet basil and holy basil. I sure hope my kaffir lime tree comes back to life. I left it insulated outside because I didn’t have any place to put it inside. I guess I’ll know in a couple of months. I do know that my lemongrass is dead (sorry mom). They didn't make it despite the insulation.

While I was toiling away in my yard, I was daydreaming about the coming summer. I’m so looking forward to grilling and eating al fresco, my tomato harvest, and leaving my back door open to allow a gentle breeze to cool my house. And just because I'm tired of heavy winter food, I made a refreshing shrimp and pomelo salad for dinner today. I found the recipe in a Thai cookbook I got from Costco called The Food of Thailand (check out the thumbnail in the right sidebar). I bought it for the pictures, but wasn’t expecting too much from the recipes. However, I’ve been pleasantly surprised. I use it often for guidelines and inspiration.

You'll notice I listed a few things as optional because I didn't add them for one reason or another, but I still think the result was quite tasty. The sweet acidity of the pomelo goes so well with the spiciness of the dressing. And it takes no time to throw it all together. If you're a fan of Thai flavors, I think you'll enjoy this one.

Pomelo is the godfather of citrus fruits (as far as size goes). It's got a thick skin that's a bitch to peel, so I always cut it with a sharp knife. The taste is more mellow than a grapefruit. By that, I mean it's sweeter and less acidic. The difference between the two remind me of the difference between a lime and a regular lemon. If you like grapefruit, I'm positive you'll like pomelo. And if you're not a fan of grapefruit, give pomelo a try. You may be pleasantly surprised.

Pomelo and Shrimp Salad with Spicy Herb Dressing
  • 2/3 to ¾ pounds medium shrimp, shelled and de-veined
  • 1 pomelo
  • ¼ large sweet onion, sliced into thin wedges
  • ½ cup mint leaves, roughly chopped
  • ¼ cup cilantro leaves, roughly chopped
  • 1 tbs fish sauce
  • 1 tbs naam prik phao
  • 1 tbs fresh lime juice
  • 1 tsp brown sugar
  • Thai chilies split lengthwise, to taste (optional)
  • 3 tbs unsweetened (!!) shredded coconut, toasted (optional)
  • 1 tbs crispy fried shallots or onions (optional)
Set a medium pot of water on for the shrimp. When it comes to a rapid boil, add the shrimp and allow them to simmer for 2 to 3 minutes (adjust the heat if necessary to keep it at a simmer). Resist the urge to stir the shrimp. Just let them poach away gently. When they’re done, drain them and dunk them in cold water to stop the cooking. Drain them again and put them in the fridge until needed.

It’s easiest to peel the pomelo using a sharp knife. Try to remove as much of the pith as possible, since it can be quite bitter. Cut the segments free and reserve them in a bowl.

In another small bowl, combine the fish sauce, naam prik phao, lime juice and sugar. Stir to dissolve the sugar. You want a uniform mixture. Adjust the taste by adding more fish sauce, lime juice or sugar.

To assemble the salad, combine the onion, chili, mint, cilantro and toasted coconut in a large mixing bowl. Add the shrimp and pomelo (but not the accumulated juices). Spoon a couple of tablespoons of the dressing on top and stir gently. Taste and add more dressing if you like. Lastly, top with the fried onions, if using. Serve immediately, alone or with lettuce or cabbage leaves for wrapping.

Monday, February 11, 2008

Tom Kha Gai: Aromatic Hot and Sour Soup with Coconut Milk

I think the hardest thing about making Thai food at home may be finding the ingredients. You can find some things at your local grocery store. It’s a whole lot easier if you have a local Thai/Viet market, but even then, things may still be unavailable (like the time kaffir lime leaves were unavailable for months here in Portland).



When I visit my local Thai market, I like to purchase extra quantities of herbs and store them for future use. Here are some examples:
  • Galangal looks kinda like ginger. Its fibers are denser, making it harder to grate. It’s usually found refrigerated in a large tub of water. Once I get home with it, I will slice it into semi-thick slices, wrap them in plastic wrap in usable portions, and then throw them into a Ziploc bag in the freezer. They keep almost forever that way.
  • Lemon grass can usually be found in any well-stocked supermarket, making it easy enough to pick up any time I need it. However, if there is a particularly fresh looking batch, I’ll purchase a lot. They freeze beautifully. I recommend trimming before freezing.
  • Kaffir lime leaves (aka makrut) also freeze beautifully. I bought my own tree, but it’s not mature enough to give many leaves. Luckily mom brought down a gallon-sized Ziploc bag this last summer. I just threw them all in my freezer.
  • Chilies also freeze well. I just throw them in the freezer whole and grab as many as I need.
  • Coriander roots are hard to find, even at my local Asian markets. I grew some last year just to harvest the roots, but that wasn’t enough for more than 2 or 3 dishes. When I find it at the Thai store, I will buy every last bunch. Amazingly they can be frozen! Cut them with about 2 inches of stem attached and clean them well. Dry them well before freezing, otherwise they will get freezer burn. I also like to press them into that special blue freezer wrap by GLAD to keep out extra air. A proper food sealer would be even better (Hubby, this is a hint to you, if you are reading).
One of the best and easiest examples of cooking with Thai herbs is hot and sour soup with coconut milk. It’s aromatic, spicy, and sour with just a hint of sweetness. Wonderful for these cold winter days here in Portland. Even though this soup is a cinch to make, I like to start it after lunch and let it simmer for about an hour. Then I’ll let it sit until dinnertime to allow the flavors to meld. I don’t add the chicken until I’m ready to serve.

Tom Kha Gai
Feeds 4
  • 1 x 14 oz can regular or lite coconut milk
  • 2 stalks lemon grass, whites only, slightly crushed
  • 2 inch x 2-inch piece of galangal, cut into thick slices
  • 4 or 5 Asian shallots, peeled and cut in half (or 1 large French shallot in wedges)
  • 10 kaffir lime leaves, crushed between your fingers to release aroma
  • Thai chilies to taste, cut lengthwise
  • 3 ½ cups chicken stock (or two 14 oz canned broth, low sodium recommended)
  • 2-3 tbs fish sauce, more taste
  • 1 to 2 tbs brown sugar, to taste
  • 3 to 4 tbs fresh lime juice, more to taste
  • oyster mushrooms, shredded (about ½ cup to 1 cup)
  • 2 roma tomatoes, seeded and cut into thin wedges (optional)
  • meat from 3 or 4 chicken thighs (or two breasts), sliced
  • cilantro for garnishing
Put the coconut milk, lemon grass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and shallots in a large pot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Allow to boil for about 5 minutes. Add the chicken broth, fish sauce, brown sugar and lime juice. Once it comes to a boil again, turn down the heat to low and allow it to simmer uncovered for at least 30 minutes. Add the mushrooms and continue to simmer for another 10 minutes, or until the soup comes back up to a simmer. Adjust the seasonings by adding more lime juice, fish sauce or sugar to suit your taste. Lastly, add the chicken and tomatoes, give the soup a quick stir, and allow to simmer for a final 10 minutes. I really insist that you do not stir the soup during this time, otherwise, the meat will harden. Just let it poach undisturbed. Once the chicken is cooked through, you’re done! Allow it to cool a little before serving. I find it’s hard to enjoy the flavors when the soup is so hot, it burns my tongue. Serve garnished with cilantro leaves. If I serve this as a main meal, I usually put out steamed rice or sticky rice to make it heartier.

Friday, February 8, 2008

Thai-Style Sweet and Sour Pork

Who said Thai food is spicy?

Okay, a lot of it is, but there are plenty of dishes for those who can’t tolerate the heat. One thing that comes to mind is Thai-style sweet and sour. What? You’ve never heard of it? That’s probably because it’s not commonly found on the menu at most Thai restaurants, but it should be!

You’re probably wondering if it’s similar to the Chinese sweet and sour pork that we are used to here in the States. No, it’s not. Unlike the Chinese version, Thai sweet and sour is a stir-fry with pineapple, onion, tomato and cucumber (and any other embellishments you fancy). The sourness comes from pineapple juice with a little vinegar thrown in. There’s no cornstarch in the sauce; it’s thickened by being wok-caramelized. Oh, and it contains a healthy dose of fish sauce.



The version I use is a little different from traditional sweet and sour pork. Instead of the vinegar, I use plum sauce for tartness (an idea I ran across flipping through a Thai cookbook). I also don’t like stir-fried cucumbers, so I replace those with celery, which tastes wonderful when stir-fried.

Thai-style Sweet and Sour Pork
Serves 3 adults
  • 12oz pork sirloin or tenderloin, sliced for stir-fry
  • ¼ cup unsweetened pineapple juice
  • 1 tbs plum sauce
  • 1 tbs sugar
  • 1 tbs fish sauce, more to taste
  • 1 tbs minced garlic
  • ½ large onion, cut into wedges
  • 3 stalks celery, thick- sliced on the diagonal
  • 1 large tomato, cut into 8 wedges
  • ½ to 2/3 cup 1-inch pineapple pieces (fresh is best but canned is fine)
To make the sauce, combine the pineapple juice, plum sauce, sugar and fish sauce in a small bowl. Mix to dissolve the sugar. Set aside until needed.

In a hot wok over medium-high heat, add about 2 tbs oil. Quickly stir-fry the pork with the garlic until almost done. Remove and keep warm.

Crank up the heat to high and add a little more oil if necessary. Stir-fry the onions and celery for a couple of minutes. Add the tomatoes and pineapple. Stir-fry for an additional minute or two. The celery should be crisp, but not raw. Add the pork back in. Drizzle the sauce down the sides of the wok and mix well. It's done when the pork is cooked through. Serve with steamed rice. I also like a large dollop of Vietnamese chili-garlic sauce or sambal oelek.

Saturday, February 2, 2008

Drunken Noodles

Drunken noodles (aka pad kee mao) seemed like all the rage a few years back. Funny thing is the first time I can remember having this dish is at a Thai restaurant. Mom never made it at home. People never believe me when I tell them this. They think that just because I grew up in a Thai household, I’ve eaten every Thai dish ever invented. So not true. But just because I didn’t grow up eating pad kee mao doesn’t mean I don’t love it. It also happens to be Hubby’s favorite rice noodle preparation so I’ve learned to make it.


Normally, I encourage people to make substitutions or change a dish according to their taste, but for this dish, I feel there are a couple essentials that just should not be left out. The first is the Thai basil. Traditionally holy basil is used, but Thai sweet basil will work fine. Both have distinctive flavors that are sometimes interchanged but cannot be replicated with the basil you’d use to make pesto. The second is to use the proper type of soy sauce. Ya’ll know that all soy sauces are not created equal! I found the best combination is black soy sauce (preferably Thai, but Chinese will work okay) and mushroom soy sauce. Other than that, you can play around with the vegetables and meat. I’ve seen bell peppers, broccoli, mushrooms, baby corn and even tomatoes. For the meat, just about anything will do, but my favorites are chicken and pork.

I recommend using Thai black soy sauce but this Chinese version is similar enough. Both use molasses to give a slight sweetness.

Drunken Noodles
Feeds 4 to 6
  • 2 tbs black soy sauce
  • 4 tbs mushroom soy sauce or light soy sauce
  • 1 tsp brown sugar
  • 6 cloves garlic, minced
  • fresh Thai chilies, to taste, cut lengthwise
  • 1 cup packed Thai basil leaves (holy basil is best, but Thai sweet will work)
  • 2 to 3 chicken breasts, roughly minced (pork, turkey or cubed tofu also okay to use)
  • ½ large onion, sliced into wedges
  • 1 to 2 cups Chinese long beans, sliced into 2” sticks
  • fish sauce, to taste
  • 1 package fresh rice noodles (sold in 2- pound packages), strands separated
Start by making the sauce. I always recommend making more than you’ll need. Try doing 1.5x to a double portion just in case you want more flavor. Mix the soy sauces and brown sugar in a bowl until the sugar is mostly dissolved. Set aside until needed.

Before you start stir-frying, make sure you’ve got everything prepared. The noodles may take the longest because separating the strands can be tedious and difficult to separate. It’s a little easier if they are not straight out of the fridge. Keep in mind that every single strand doesn’t have to be separated, but try to the have no more than two strands stuck together.

In a very hot wok over high heat, add about 2 tbs peanut oil or vegetable oil. Add the chilies, garlic and stir-fry for about 20 seconds. Add the onion wedges and long beans and continue to stir-fry for about 1 minute. Add the meat and cook until just done. Add a couple squirts of fish sauce and remove everything quickly to a bowl. Set aside until needed.

To the hot wok, add about 1 or 2 tbs more oil, and when it’s hot add most of the basil then the separated noodles on top. Stir-fry until the noodles begin to soften, maybe 3 or 4 minutes. Give the noodles a few seconds between turns to allow them to take on some color. Let’s hope your wok is well seasoned, otherwise you’ll have a big mess of rice noodle stuck and burnt at the bottom. Add back in the meat and veggies and give it a few good stirs to mix. Add in about half to 2/3 of the sauce and stir-fry to mix it well. Taste the noodles and add more sauce as needed. Throw in the remainder of the basil and give it a quick turn, then you’re done. Serve immediately with fish sauce on the side to allow diners to adjust the taste to their liking.