I Like Thai-nese Food

A friend asked how I learned to cook Chinese food. I thought about this a lot and I realized I learned by osmosis, if you can believe it. See, teachers aren’t right about everything!

When I was 14 (and a half) I got a job working at a take-out Chinese restaurant. In the beginning, my job was to take orders, be the cashier, and keep the front of the restaurant nice and tidy. When it wasn’t busy, I made egg rolls, wontons and prepped veggies. I got to see how to cook using a wok and using Chinese cooking techniques. So you see I’m not kidding: I really did learn just by being there. Still wondering why this method didn’t work for physics class??

Most of the cooking I do now is not strictly Thai or Chinese (the inside joke is it’s actually Thai-nese). I mix all kinds of stuff and hope for the best. I’m not one of those that’s hung up on producing authentic dishes. Who cares as long as it tastes good?

Speaking of tasting good, I’m going to Cancun tomorrow. I know I’m the only one who understands the previous sentence. I guess what I’m trying to say is that 1) my head is so full of checklists, I’m unable to formulate a coherent thought, 2) I won’t be posting until I return, sometime after November 1st, 3) I’m leaving you with an easy, delicious stir-fry idea using chicken, hoisin, lemongrass and kaffir lime leaf.

Enjoy! I’ll be thinking about some of you as I sip cocktails by the pool.

Chicken Stir-fry with Lemongrass and Kaffir Lime Leaf
Feeds 2 adults and 1 preschooler.

• 1 tbs hoisin
• 1tbs fish sauce
• 1 tbs oyster sauce
• 1 tbs brown sugar
• 10 smaller Asian shallots, peeled and halved (red pearl onions are fine)
• 2 stalks lemongrass, whites only, finely sliced or chopped
• 2 Kaffir lime leaves, cut into thin strips
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1-2 seeded chilies, cut in half lengthwise (optional)
• 2 chicken breasts, cut into small cubes

In a small bowl, mix the hoisin, fish sauce, oyster sauce and sugar. Set aside until needed.

In a very hot wok over high heat, add a little oil. Add the shallots and stir-fry until they take on some color, about 1 minute. Add the garlic, chili, lemongrass, lime leaves and chicken. When the chicken is almost done, add the sauce mix. It should begin to caramelize quickly. Stir-fry until the chicken is done. Garnish with the sliced chilies and serve with steamed jasmine rice.

Food Fit for a Power Ranger

This evening at dinner Sonny said, “This is so yummy, I bet even Power Rangers would eat it!” If you knew how obsessed my son is with Power Rangers, you’d understand what a huge compliment that was. But don’t get the wrong idea, he wasn’t talking about mac n’ cheese or pizza (which we’ll have tomorrow night). He was talking about yakisoba stir-fry.

This is such a versatile dish because you can basically use just about any meat or vegetable you like. The sauce is slightly sweet due to the hoisin, but that’s balanced by the black soy sauce (which is very salty) and chili bean paste. (don’t worry, this is not at all spicy). To further balance the hoisin, I recommend a strong veggie like mustard greens, bok choy, asparagus or even broccoli. For the meat, I used chicken, but you could just as well substitute pork, beef or tofu.

This recipe easily serves 6 (8 if it’s part of a multi-course meal).

Yakisoba Stir-fry with Chicken and Mustard Greens

• 3 tbs hoisin sauce
• 2 tbs black soy sauce (regular soy sauce is fine too)
• 1 tbs Chinese chili bean paste (or chili garlic sauce will do fine)
• ½ tbs brown sugar
• 1 tbs sesame oil
• 1 tbs minced garlic
• 1 tbs minced or grated ginger
• 1 bunch mustard greens, roughly chopped
• 1 ½ to 2 chicken breast, sliced for stir-fry
• 2 bunches green onions, thinly sliced on the diagonal
• 1 (32 0z) package of yakisoba noodles

Start by separating the noodles. They come compressed together and it can be hard to separate them when they are cold. You could dunk them into boiling water for about 10 or 20 seconds, but that’s too much work for me. I’m also afraid they will get too soft and become soggy when I stir-fry them. What I normally end up doing is putting them into my stockpot and filling that with lukewarm water and carefully trying to separate the noodles with my hands. Every strand doesn’t have to be separated, but they should be loose. Drain them and keep them in a colander until ready to use. They come lightly coated with oil so they shouldn’t clump together and stick.

Make the sauce mix by combining the hoisin, soy sauce, chili bean paste, brown sugar and sesame oil. Mix well to dissolve the sugar and set aside until it’s needed.

Heat a wok over high heat. When it’s very, very hot add a splash of oil (about 2 tbs). Add the garlic and ginger and fry for about 10 seconds. Add the chicken and then the mustard greens. Stir-fry for about 2 minutes, until the chicken is almost done. Add the drained noodles and stir-fry until everything is well mixed, about 1 minute. Add the sauce mix and continue to stir-fry until the noodles are coated with the sauce, about a minute or two more. Turn off the heat and throw in the green onions. Toss a couple more times and you’re done! Serve immediately. Even though this is well seasoned, I always serve noodles with fish sauce, lime wedges and sambal oelek on the side just in case anyone wants to a little extra seasoning.






We scored this costume at the local Goodwill. Nevermind the costume is for the black ranger and the mask belongs to the green ranger. What can you ask for for $6.99?? He'll probably wear the Darth Vader mask we picked up at the same time anyways. Don't you just love the poses?

Eat Like a Dane

If I had to guess which country consumes the most paté per capita, I would bet my money on Denmark. Of course, I’ve seen no statistics to back up my speculation (nor do I actually intend to look up this silly fact). My only evidence comes from living there for 2 ½ years. So I know what I know, and I know the Danes love them some paté.

The best recipe I’ve tried for Danish-style liver paté comes from a cookbook called Frøken Jensen’s Kogebog. It’s the Danish version of that Betty Crocker (or was it Better Homes and Gardens??) cookbook so popular a couple of generations ago. There’s not one picture in this entire cookbook. Each page is so dense with text (the recipes are presented one right after another) that I literally have to follow each line with my finger or I’d get lost. And like it’s outdated American counterpart, there are recipes as unappetizing as a savory gelatin mold (is there really such a recipe or is it urban legend??). Yet, I have a warm spot in my heart for Miss Jensen’s book. It reveals an entire culture’s past eating habits. And while many of the recipes are probably outdated, hidden in the dense text are some gems to be found. Recipes like Danish rice porridge, fish cakes, pancakes and the paté (actually 2 different versions).

The main difference between Danish liver paté and a French style paté is the texture. The French stuff is stiffer. The Danish paté is not stiff and can be eaten cold or warm. When cold it will spread creamy, but when warm it’s loose. It's also well suited to freezing due to the hight fat content. I recommend freezing before you bake. Then when you want to eat it, just put it into the oven frozen. I’d guess you’d need to extend the cooking time by 15 to 20 minutes (depending on the size of the form you use).

Leverpostej

• 10 ½ oz liver (recommended pork or chicken liver)
• 5 ¼ oz pork fat
• ½ large onion, diced
• 3 anchovy filets
• 3 oz butter
• 2 ½ tbs flour
• 10 oz warm milk
• 2 eggs
• 2 tsp salt
• ¼ tsp ground nutmeg
• ¼ tsp ground allspice
• fresh ground black pepper, to taste

Start by making a roux with the butter, flour and milk. In a medium saucepan over low heat, melt the butter. Add the flour while whisking vigorously. You should get a uniform mixture. Make sure to warm the milk and whisk vigorously while adding it slowly. At first, the mixture will be thin. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, over low heat until it thickens and bubbles lightly, about 5 minutes. Pour the béchamel into a large bowl and press plastic wrap onto the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Put it aside to cool completely.

Cut the pork fat into very small chunks. Do the same with the liver. Throw the liver, fat and onion into a food processor and process until uniform. Stop to scrape down the sides if necessary. There shouldn’t be any large chunks of fat or onion left. Add the eggs and process until incorporated. Pour the mixture into a large bowl. Add the spices. Add the cooled béchamel and mix very well. Pour into a greased loaf pan (I recommend mini loaf pans or small 3 or 4 inch ramekins) and bake at 350ºF until center springs back to the touch. It will take anywhere from 40 minutes in small ramekins to 50 minutes in mini loaf pans. The way I usually tell it’s done is to slightly tip the form. If the liquid is clear, then it’s done, but if the liquid is still pinkish, give it another 5-10 minutes. Don’t worry about overcooking these. There’s so much fat in here, it’s virtually impossible. Besides, the Danes re-heat this all the time and when it cools down it’s still creamy. It can be served cold or warm with Danish rye bread (called European rye bread at your local Trader Joes, or bake your own with this mix from Ikea). I prefer it cold because it spreads nice and creamy. It’s still delicious when served warm, but the texture is looser. Don’t forget the sweet pickles, pickled beets or pickled red cabbage on the side! To make it extra special, the Danes will also dress it up with sautéed mushrooms and crisp bacon.

The Best One-Pot Dish Ever

When I saw Citymama’s Korean Beef Stew, I was reminded of a similar recipe I wanted to try when the weather got cooler. There really isn’t much to say about this one-pot wonder. It’s easy and delicious…salty, slightly sweet, just a little hint of heat and wonderfully balanced by the bitterness of the mustard greens (my current favorite veggie).

Oven Braised Beef with Korean Hot Pepper Paste

• 2 to 2 ½ lbs chuck steak, cut into 2 inch chunks
• 10 pearl onions, peeled (or 2 regular onions cut into 8 wedges)
• 1 head garlic, cut in half crosswise
• 1 knob ginger, sliced
• 1/3 cup packed brown sugar
• ½ cup low sodium tamari (low sodium soy sauce is fine)
• 2 tbs Korean hot pepper paste
• 3 carrots, cut in chunks (butternut squash could also work well)
• 1 tbs sesame oil
• 1 bunch mustard greens, stems and ribs removed and chopped roughly
• about 2 tbs toasted sesame seeds for garnish

There’s really nothing more to it than putting all the ingredients into a Dutch oven and putting that into a preheated 325º oven for 2 hours or so. No need to brown the meat first (although you're welcome to). Just make sure the hot pepper paste is dissolved by mixing it with the soy sauce and sugar before adding it to the pot.

When the meat is tender, add the mustard greens and continue to cook for 10 minutes, until the greens are wilted and tender. It’s easiest to do this step on the stove over low heat. I recommend letting the soup sit off the heat for a few minutes to allow the flavors to mellow out. Like any stew-y dish, this one is even better the next day. Serve topped with the toasted sesame seeds on steamed white rice.

Can't Live Another Day Without Noodle Soup

I recently watched Anthony Bourdain tour Shanghai on his show No Reservations. Since then, I’ve had an intense craving for noodle soup. Unfortunately there aren’t any great noodle soup restaurants here in Portland (none that I’ve found yet), and I haven’t been able to find the time to make up a batch of soup from 10 pounds of beef bones. So I cheated and used this. Of course I would prefer to use homemade chicken or beef stock when I cook, but it’s not always happening. I’ve learned to have some ready-to-use base around. I actually prefer it to canned broth because I can easily adjust the intensity of the broth. If you haven’t already, I would really encourage you to try it.

The fun thing about making noodles soups is that just about anything goes. Depending on my mood, I may decide on a spicy broth or a sweet broth or a sweet and sour both. This time I decided on something slightly sweet and aromatic. I made a quick stir fry with Chinese sausage and ground turkey to put on top. Very simple and satisfying…just ask my mother-in-law.

Rice Noodle Soup with Stir-fried Chinese Sausage and Ground Turkey
(feeds 3-4 adults)

For the Broth

• ½ large onion
• 1 tsp fennel seeds
• 3 star anise
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 8 cups chicken broth
• 1 tbs thick soy sauce
• 1 tbs hoisin sauce
• 1 tbs rice vinegar (optional)

For the Stir-fry

• 1 Chinese sausage, diced
• 1 pound ground chicken, turkey or pork
• 2-3 cloves garlic, minced
• ½ tbs minced or grated ginger
• 1 generous tablespoon chili bean paste
• 1 generous tsp hoisin sauce
• 1 tbs soy sauce
• splash of sesame oil

For the soup

• 1 package dried rice noodles (or use the vacuum-packed fresh noodles)
• thinly sliced scallions
• chopped cilantro
• chopped chilies or sambal oelek
• thinly sliced Napa cabbage
• blanched bean sprouts
• fish sauce
• lime wedges
  

Start by soaking the dry noodles in water for at least 15 minutes. If you are using fresh noodles, you don’t need to soak them. Set a pot of water to boil while you prepare the other stuff.

For the broth:
In a large stock pot over medium heat, add the dry spices and toast them until they are aromatic, about 30 to 45 seconds. Add the onion. Let it sear for about 30 seconds. Don’t worry if it seems to be burning. Add the broth, thick soy sauce and hoisin sauce. Turn up the heat and bring to a boil. Then turn down the heat and let it simmer uncovered while you start the stir fry. At some point before serving, you’ll want to taste the broth. Adjust the flavorings as necessary. Sometimes I add a splash (about 1 tbs) of rice vinegar to round out the taste.

For the stir-fry:
In a small bowl, mix together the chili bean paste, hoisin sauce, soy sauce, and sesame oil. Set aside.

Add the garlic and ginger to the ground turkey. Mix well and set aside.

In a hot wok over high heat, add about 1 tbs oil. When hot, add the diced Chinese sausage. Stir-fry for about 30 to 45 seconds, stirring constantly to keep it from burning. Add the sauce mix and give it a quick stir, then add the ground turkey. Stir-fry until browned and cooked through. Set aside.

To assemble the soup:
Boil the noodles until done. Fresh noodles literally take 1 minute. The dried noodles can take longer depending on how old they are. Today they took almost 5 minutes, probably because they were well past their expiration date, which was no where to be found. That’s the hazard of buying stuff from small ethnic markets. Still, they turned out fine.

Divide the noodles among the bowls. Top with the Napa cabbage, bean sprouts and stir-fry. Ladle as much broth over the noodles as you like. Top with the cilantro and green onions and any other condiment that strikes your fancy.

Let's Talk About Top Chef and Pork Loin

I don’t normally watch a lot of TV, but I do like me some Top Chef. I just happened to stumble on it about a month ago, and I was hooked. Gotta say, I was disappointed that Dale didn’t win. Yes, I know Hung was very well trained. I was very excited when he put together a Vietnamese-inspired, French-executed menu and showed the judges it could be tasty and sophisticated (although I just couldn’t get behind the coconut foam; call me a bumpkin, but foam belongs on a latte). BUT Hung was so arrogant throughout the competition. In a previous show, he wouldn't even help one of his competitors mash some potatoes because he was “here to win”. Please. No need to worry, dude; no one was going to win Top Chef with mashed potatoes.

Dale, on the other hand, was completely different. He was courteous and good-humored. And he kept it real. Like when he said “I’m gonna cook the shit out of your ass” (or something to that effect). Or when he confessed he knew nothing about cowboys, but he had slept with a few. Great in the kitchen, great sense of humor, cute little mohawk. Yes, he’s going to make some dude very happy one day.

If you’re a Top Chef fan, leave a comment and let me know what you thought about this season and the finale.

And if you’re a pork loin fan, I have something for you. It’s a brined pork loin with caramelized onion and apples. The brine recipe came from this month’s issue of Gourmet. I made a couple of substitutions, but I don't think it affected the results at all. The meat came out tender, not salty. The onions and apples make a sweet and tangy topping for the pork so you don’t really need a sauce, but a nice pan sauce would be easy enough to make.

Pork Loin with Caramelized Onions and Apples

• 6 cups water
• ½ cup kosher salt
• 1/3 cup sugar (brown or white is fine)
• 5 or 6 whole all spice berries
• 1 ½ tsp black peppercorns
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 3-inch piece of cinnamon
• 6 center-cut pork loin chops, 1 inch thick
• 1 large apple, cored and sliced
• 2 medium onions, sliced
• ¼ cup cider vinegar
• salt and pepper to taste

Start by making the brine. In a saucepan combine the water, salt, sugar, all spice, peppercorns, bay leaf and cinnamon stick. Heat until the sugar and salt are dissolved. Allow the mixture to cool completely before adding the pork. Brine the pork for 12 hours to 2 days in the fridge.

I actually made the brine the night before. After it sat for about half an hour, I took out the cinnamon stick, covered it and left it on my back porch overnight (because my fridge is packed full of stuff and my back porch is just as cold, which is very convenient for chilling beer and sodas as well). Then the first thing I did when I woke up the next morning (at 6:30!!) was add it to the pork chops in a large Ziploc bag. When I got home from work, they were ready to cook up.

A half hour to an hour before cooking the chops, pull them out of the fridge to take the chill off.

In them meantime, heat some oil in a frying pan over medium to medium-high heat. Add the onions and apples. Cook until they caramelize. It could take 15 to 20 minutes to get them soft and brown. Add the apple cider vinegar and let it reduce completely. Add salt and pepper to taste. Keep warm until the pork is done.

The chops take about 10 minutes to cook. I cooked them in a cast iron skillet over high heat. They can also be grilled (if you like grilling in the rain). Let the meat rest for 5 minutes before serving. In addition to the onions and apples, you could serve this with potatoes and a nice pan sauce, or you could serve it on your favorite bread for a kick-ass sandwich.