Pork Shank Noodle Soup

If you need some comic relief, go see a T-ball game. We signed Sonny up for our local little league and had no idea what to expect. Let’s just say, I’ll be happy if Sonny isn’t scared of the ball by the end of the season. None of the kids can catch. Only one kid can actually throw hard enough to reach base to base. Since everyone is still learning the game at this point, the entire team is out on the field at the same time. Imagine ten 5-year-olds running for every single ball that comes out. Talk about pile-ups; it looked more like rugby than baseball. Then once they’ve wrestled the ball from their teammates, they’re usually confused about what to do with it. Once during the first game, Sonny was supposed to be running from first to second base but decided instead to chase the ball hit by his own teammate. That wasn’t as bad as the kid who hit the ball (pretty hard too) then proceeded to run to 3rd base. I don’t think I’ve ever laughed so hard in my life.

Sonny taking a practice lap. Isn't he cute with the little fists? Doesn't the weather look lovely?

Sonny running for home plate.

The downside to playing sports in the spring in Portland is having to deal with unpredictable weather. Last weekend was so warm and beautiful. People were wearing shorts and flip-flops to the game. This weekend it hailed and didn’t even break 50 F. People were dressed like they were going skiing. I made the mistake of wearing my Chuck Taylors and by the time I got home, my feet were so wet and cold, I couldn’t feel my toes.

While other people in warmer climes are pulling out their grills, I fired up my oven to braise pork shank for noodle soup. It’s a variation of a pork shank stew I ate growing up. Usually it's served with hard-boiled eggs over rice. This time I decided to nix the eggs and do it with noodles. The broth is savory-sweet with hints of anise, fennel, cinnamon and ginger. The pork shank is so tender because it’s braised with the skin on. This keeps the meat moist and when the collagen breaks down, it adds richness to the broth, much like what happens when you braise lamb shank.

Braised Pork Shank Noodle Soup
Serves 4 to 5 adults

• 2 to 3 pork shanks, with skin (about 3 pounds)
• 2 star anise
• 1 3-inch stick cinnamon
• ½ tbs toasted fennel seeds
• ½ tbs toasted coriander seeds
• 1 thumb-sized piece of ginger, sliced
• 3-4 cloves garlic, crushed
• 2 tbs sugar
• 2 tbs fish sauce
• 2 tbs thick soy sauce (see note)
• 6 cups water
• 1 pack chow mein noodles, usually sold in 16 oz packs (see note)
• 4 or 5 green onions, thinly sliced for garnish
• ½ bunch cilantro, chopped for garnish
• ¼ pound Chinese BBQ pork, thinly sliced (optional)
• ¼ pound fish cake, thinly sliced (optional)
• bean sprouts or sliced bok choy, blanched (optional)
• Condiments: chili garlic sauce or sambal, lime wedges, fish sauce

Note: The flavor base for the broth is thick soy sauce. As its name implies, it is thick with the consistency of molasses. It is also sweetened with molasses. Regular old Kikkoman cannot be substituted. I believe thick soy sauce also goes by the name ketchap manis.

For this dish, I recommend using the chow mein noodles. They have a better texture than ramen noodles or even rice noodles. However, if you can’t find them substitute any noodle you like. Or you could even use rice.

I've only recently discovered these noodles. I like them because they have a nice al dente texture, whereas ramen or rice noodles can get soggy. They are also great for stir-frying.

In a stockpot or large Dutch oven, warm a little oil over medium-high heat. When hot, add the pork shanks and brown them well on all sides. Add the spices, ginger, and garlic and fry until fragrant. Add the water, sugar, thick soy sauce and fish sauce. Allow to come to a boil. When it comes to a boil, cover and braise either on the stovetop over low heat or in a 300 degree oven (my preferred method). Either way, it will take about 2 to 3 hours. It’s done when the meat on the shanks is fork tender and the collagen has broken down.

Normally I make this stew a day or two in advance and allow it to sit in my fridge to let the flavors meld. And it makes it so much easier to remove the fat, which will rise to the top and solidify. However, this isn’t necessary. If you plan to eat them the same day, just remove the shanks and allow them to cool slightly before removing the skin and bones and collecting the meat. If you allow the broth to sit for 15 to 30 minutes, the fat will rise to the top and you can skim some of it off. I recommend straining the broth to remove the spices.

Cook the noodles according to package instructions. For the chow mein noodles, I just boil them for 2 minutes and drain. Easy.

To plate, I put a bundle of noodles in the bowl, pile it with the garnishes then ladle the broth on top. I like just a couple of ladles of broth, while Sonny and Hubby like a lot of broth. The condiments go out on the table so everyone can season their soup the way they like.

Soup to Warm You to the Bone: Soon Dubu

A few weeks ago, my neighbor, Mr. Z, made the most delicious Korean soup, which he called soon dubu. It had tofu, shrimp and egg, and the main flavoring ingredient was Korean hot pepper paste (aka gochu jang). In addition to being one of the tastiest soups that has ever passed my lips, it is easy to make. Mr. Z shared the recipe with me and I’m passing it on to you.



Notes before you start:
1) If you didn’t notice, this soup is going to be spicy. To cut down on the spiciness, omit the crushed red pepper and add only 1 tbs gochu jang.
2) Instead of chicken broth, Mr. Z suggests anchovy broth. I suspect it’s a homemade thing, as I’ve never seen this for sale. Instead I used chicken broth and boiled the shells of the shrimp in the broth for about 15 minutes. In addition, I added 1 tbs of dried shrimp to the soup. This is completely optional.
3) I used 3 eggs, but separated two of them so I could poach two yolks whole because I love soft poached eggs.

This stuff is spicy and salty and gives food a wonderful flavor. Try it in this beef stew or as a marinade for grilled beef.

Soon Dubu

• 2 tsp dark sesame oil
• ¼ tsp crushed red pepper
• 1/8 tsp ground black pepper
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 cup finely chopped zucchini
• 1 bunch green onions, cut into 1 inch pieces, whites and greens separated
• 6 shitake mushrooms, sliced (or two large handfuls of dried shitakes)
• ½ onion (preferably sweet, like Vidalia), sliced into thin wedges
• 1 to 2 tbs gochu jang (Korean hot pepper paste)
• 1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and roughly chopped
• 5 to 6 cups chicken broth
• 1 package silken tofu
• 2 to 3 eggs, lightly beaten
• salt, to taste

In a pot over medium heat, add the sesame oil and about another tablespoon of vegetable oil. When hot, add the mushrooms, garlic, red and black peppers, and whites of the green onions. Saute for a minute . Add the onion wedges, zucchini, chicken broth and gochu jang. Allow to come to a slow boil and stir to dissolve the paste. Add the tofu and stir to break it up roughly. Check the seasonings. Add more pepper paste if you’d like it spicer and salt if necessary. Simmer the soup for a few minutes (5 or 10), then add the beaten egg. After a couple of minutes, add the shrimp. Resist the urge to stir! Just allow the shrimp to quietly poach in the soup until they are pink and cooked through. Add the greens of the green onions. Turn off the heat and allow the soup to rest, covered, for about 10 minutes before serving. I like my soup with a little bowl of rice.

Yummy Sweet Potato Cakes

Yesterday was supposed to be the last day of my clean-out-the-freezer challenge, but I had to work and we had a Christmas party to attend so today is the finale. Hooray!

Today’s freezer item was the black bean soup I made back in September. Before adding the chorizo, I took a portion to freeze. This time we had it just as it was, without chorizo, and it was still a hearty and delicious lunch.

Black bean soup with cumin

I’m supposed to start the pantry challenge today, but I’ve been thinking that it might be more relevant to do some posts about foods to bring to holiday potlucks. Besides, I don’t think I could handle it if I had to post something for another 7 days in a row. I give props to ya’ll that did it for the entire month of November.

Back to potluck foods…I was flipping through the latest issue of Saveur and was inspired by a recipe for latkes. Instead of using regular potatoes and chives, I thought it would be interesting to use sweet potatoes and cilantro. I was surprised at how delicious they were. I'm not a big potato eater, but I will definitely be making these again soon. When you bite into the cakes, the outsides are crispy and the insides are soft, like a good hash brown. The cilantro gives them a fresh taste. And they are a very good potluck food: very transportable and can be served at room temp.

Sweet potato cakes with cilantro and chili-sour cream sauce

Sweet potato pancakes
makes about 25 appetizer-sized cakes

• 2 ½ pounds sweet potatoes, grated
• 1 onion, grated
• 3 tbs fine plain bread crumbs or finely ground plain cracker crumbs
• ½ to 1 bunch cilantro, finely chopped
• 3 eggs, beaten
• 2 tsp salt
• freshly ground black pepper to taste
• oil for frying

Combine the grated sweet potatoes and onion in a large bowl. Using a cheese cloth or very clean kitchen towel, squeeze as much of the liquid out as humanly possible (it’s more effective if you work in small batches). Reserve the liquid in a medium-sized bowl.

When you have squeezed out all the liquid from the sweet potatoes, set them aside until needed. Let the liquid sit for about 10 minutes to allow the starch to settle then carefully pour off the liquid.

To the bowl with the sweet potatoes and onion, add the bread crumbs, cilantro, eggs, salt, pepper and reserved starch. Mix well.

The mixture will appear dry, but don't worry, the cakes won't fall apart when you cook them.

When forming the cakes, don’t make them too thick, maybe about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Fry the cakes in a skillet in about ¼ inch of oil over medium heat. You may have to play with the heat to keep the cakes from browning too quickly, otherwise the inside will be raw (if you find the cakes aren’t cooked through, throw them into a 350º oven for about 10 minutes or until they’re done). Drain on paper towels or on a rack placed above a cookie sheet.

Unless you've got all day, you may want to bust out more than one frying pan.

These sweet potato cakes are good on their own or with a dollop of sour cream. If you want a little more spice, trying combining 2 tbs sour cream with 1 tbs mayo, a tsp chili-garlic sauce, a squeeze of lime and a little salt to taste.

What Do You Feed a Sick Child?

Did I mention I'm exhausted?

At 4:30 last night Sonny crawled into bed with us. Ten minutes later, he threw up...on me. Miraculously, Hubby and his side of the bed were spared. After cleaning up, Sonny and I moved to his bed, where he proceeded to throw up about 10 more times. Luckily I had the foresight to put an empty bucket next to the bed and luckily we were able to contain everything in that bucket. Finally at 6:30 we gave up trying to sleep and turned on cartoons. He didn’t throw up again. But he didn’t really eat anything substantial all day, just crackers and toast.

What do you feed a child who seems to have a stomach bug (or any other ailment for that matter)? If you asked my mom, she’d probably say her cure-all hot and sour soup. But my own motherly instincts tell me hot and sour soup is not going to help Sonny’s stomach. I decided to make a milder rice soup instead.

When people think of an Asian-style rice soup, something like jook usually comes to mind. I love jook...the porridge texture with bits of shredded fried pork on top and dotted with chili-garlic oil, but Sonny won’t touch it because of the texture (did I mention he’s picky??). He prefers a soupier version with firm grains of rice and mini meatballs. Don’t forget the meatballs or the world might end.

Basic Mini Meatballs for Asian soups

• 1 pound ground pork, chicken or turkey
• ½ bunch cilantro, finely chopped
• 1 tbs grated or finely chopped ginger
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tsp kosher salt
• ½ tbs cornstarch
• 1 egg

Mix all the ingredients together and form into small balls. If you end up with more mixture than you need to use immediately, just freeze some of it (before cooking) for later use. I recommend poaching the meatballs in a separate pot from the broth, otherwise your wonderfully rich, clear broth will become cloudy. If this doesn't bother you, then by all means, poach them in the soup broth. If I'm feeling industrious, I will poach them then give them a quick saute to brown the outsides.

Some things to keep in mind:
Use a good broth for the soup. This goes without saying. The broth should be rich enough that if you don’t want to add any sauces or garnishes, it will still taste great. Starting with a bland broth will result in a bland soup, no matter what sauces or garnishes you add.

If you want to chance the world ending, you can use any other protein you like. Diced leftover roasted chicken, tofu, or a poached egg work well. I’ve even used leftover stir-fry from a previous meal (see picture below). It gives the soup some extra flavor.

To keep the rice firm, I use cold leftover rice. I don't even bother to reheat. The grains will warm through when you ladle the hot broth on top.

Enjoy!

Rice soup with chicken and stir-fried mustard greens.

Can't Live Another Day Without Noodle Soup

I recently watched Anthony Bourdain tour Shanghai on his show No Reservations. Since then, I’ve had an intense craving for noodle soup. Unfortunately there aren’t any great noodle soup restaurants here in Portland (none that I’ve found yet), and I haven’t been able to find the time to make up a batch of soup from 10 pounds of beef bones. So I cheated and used this. Of course I would prefer to use homemade chicken or beef stock when I cook, but it’s not always happening. I’ve learned to have some ready-to-use base around. I actually prefer it to canned broth because I can easily adjust the intensity of the broth. If you haven’t already, I would really encourage you to try it.

The fun thing about making noodles soups is that just about anything goes. Depending on my mood, I may decide on a spicy broth or a sweet broth or a sweet and sour both. This time I decided on something slightly sweet and aromatic. I made a quick stir fry with Chinese sausage and ground turkey to put on top. Very simple and satisfying…just ask my mother-in-law.

Rice Noodle Soup with Stir-fried Chinese Sausage and Ground Turkey
(feeds 3-4 adults)

For the Broth

• ½ large onion
• 1 tsp fennel seeds
• 3 star anise
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 8 cups chicken broth
• 1 tbs thick soy sauce
• 1 tbs hoisin sauce
• 1 tbs rice vinegar (optional)

For the Stir-fry

• 1 Chinese sausage, diced
• 1 pound ground chicken, turkey or pork
• 2-3 cloves garlic, minced
• ½ tbs minced or grated ginger
• 1 generous tablespoon chili bean paste
• 1 generous tsp hoisin sauce
• 1 tbs soy sauce
• splash of sesame oil

For the soup

• 1 package dried rice noodles (or use the vacuum-packed fresh noodles)
• thinly sliced scallions
• chopped cilantro
• chopped chilies or sambal oelek
• thinly sliced Napa cabbage
• blanched bean sprouts
• fish sauce
• lime wedges
  

Start by soaking the dry noodles in water for at least 15 minutes. If you are using fresh noodles, you don’t need to soak them. Set a pot of water to boil while you prepare the other stuff.

For the broth:
In a large stock pot over medium heat, add the dry spices and toast them until they are aromatic, about 30 to 45 seconds. Add the onion. Let it sear for about 30 seconds. Don’t worry if it seems to be burning. Add the broth, thick soy sauce and hoisin sauce. Turn up the heat and bring to a boil. Then turn down the heat and let it simmer uncovered while you start the stir fry. At some point before serving, you’ll want to taste the broth. Adjust the flavorings as necessary. Sometimes I add a splash (about 1 tbs) of rice vinegar to round out the taste.

For the stir-fry:
In a small bowl, mix together the chili bean paste, hoisin sauce, soy sauce, and sesame oil. Set aside.

Add the garlic and ginger to the ground turkey. Mix well and set aside.

In a hot wok over high heat, add about 1 tbs oil. When hot, add the diced Chinese sausage. Stir-fry for about 30 to 45 seconds, stirring constantly to keep it from burning. Add the sauce mix and give it a quick stir, then add the ground turkey. Stir-fry until browned and cooked through. Set aside.

To assemble the soup:
Boil the noodles until done. Fresh noodles literally take 1 minute. The dried noodles can take longer depending on how old they are. Today they took almost 5 minutes, probably because they were well past their expiration date, which was no where to be found. That’s the hazard of buying stuff from small ethnic markets. Still, they turned out fine.

Divide the noodles among the bowls. Top with the Napa cabbage, bean sprouts and stir-fry. Ladle as much broth over the noodles as you like. Top with the cilantro and green onions and any other condiment that strikes your fancy.

I Don't Think I'm Ready for Fall

This summer was kinda a dud. We didn't take a proper vacation (we're going to in October, tho'!), and the summer just seemed too short. It got very warm for a handful of days, but it also rained and there were quite a few overcast days. So when just about every food blog I read says fall’s here, I’m thinking it’s been here since July. There are so many grilling recipes I haven’t been able to try and now those will have to wait until next year (because I don't have a gas grill). Instead, over the next couple of weeks I will be storing away garden furniture and preparing my gardens for the coming winter. There's just too much to do and I'm not at all in the mood to do it.

BUT, I'm in the mood to cook fall food. I have a ton of soups, stews and casseroles I want to make. What better way to start off than with a hearty black bean and chorizo soup? This recipe was adapted from Molly Katzen’s Brazilian Black Bean Soup found in the Moosewood Cookbook. The most important change I made was the addition of the chorizo, but the basic recipe is there (as far as I'm concerned anything that has chorizo is going to be awesome). You may feel a little dubious about the orange juice, but I promise, it makes the soup, so don't leave it out.

Black Bean Soup with Chorizo

• ½ large onion, finely chopped
• 2 stalks celery, finely chopped
• 1 carrot, finely chopped
• 6 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tsp ground cumin
• 6-8 cups chicken stock
• 1 to 1 ½ cup orange juice (from a carton is fine, but no pulp)
• 2 cups dry black beans, soaked overnight in water (or 4-5 cups canned beans, rinsed well)
  
• ¾ lbs store-bought chorizo sausage or quick homemade version (recipe follows)

In a large stockpot over medium heat, cook the beans in enough water to cover them by 1 inch. They may take 1 1/2 to 2 hours to become tender. Add more water to keep the level above the beans, if necessary.

In the meantime, brown the sausage in a Dutch oven or heavy bottom large pot. When nice and browned, remove and aside. To the same pot, add the onion, celery and carrot. Saute until soft, then add the garlic and cumin. Return the sausage to the pot and stir well. Add the chicken stock and orange juice (add 1 cup first, then more if you like). Bring to a boil then reduce the heat and simmer covered. When the beans are done, drain them and add them to the soup. Season the soup well with salt and pepper. I like to serve this soup warm (not piping hot!) with a dollop of sour cream, chopped jarred jalapenos, chopped cilantro, chopped avocado and/or chopped tomatoes.

Quick Chicken Chorizo Sausage

• 4 boneless chicken thighs, minced (skinless is fine too, but don't take off any fat from the meat)
  
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tbs smoked paprika
• ¼ tsp chili powder
  
• salt to taste (you’ll probably use close to ½ tsp)

Mix all the ingredients together, preferably 3 or 4 hours before use, and keep in the fridge until needed.

From Trash to Treasure

Asians have their own version of trashy foods. This includes things like fried rice with hot dogs or even better, Top Ramen with hot dogs. I haven't done the hot dog thing very often since my college days, but ramen noodles are definitely something I keep handy for those days when I need fast comfort food. I buy the packets, but normally use my own broth.

You’d be surprised at how easy it is to turn something like ramen into a delicious meal that’s anything but trashy (but still che-eep). Just by poaching an egg with the noodles and throwing in some chopped scallions you’ve increased the appeal of the meal without increasing the fuss. Depending on what I have on hand, additions may include bean sprouts, thinly sliced cabbage, kim chee, tofu, pickled ginger, snow peas, mushrooms, sliced or minced chicken, beef or pork. Today I combined ramen with a quick, no hassle stir-fry that turned out delicious.

Ramen soup with stir-fried Napa cabbage and chicken (Serves 2-3)

• 2 packets of ramen noodles
• 1.5 quarts of water + your favorite bouillon (if not using seasoning packets)
• 3 skinless and boneless chicken thighs, minced
• 3 cups sliced Napa cabbage
• 1 tbs oyster sauce
• 1 tbs hoisin sauce
• 2-3 eggs (optional)

If you want to use the ramen seasoning packet, cook the ramen according to package directions. If you want to use your own broth, bring the water to a boil and season it with your bouillon (make more broth if you like your ramen soupy; I tend to like mine on the less soupy side). When the broth comes to a boil, add the ramen and cook until tender. Remove the noodles from the broth and divide among bowls. Turn down the heat to a simmer and carefully add the eggs. Allow them to poach until they’re done to your satisfaction.

While you prepare the broth and noodles, make the stir-fry. In a wok over, high heat, stir-fry the chicken in about 1-2 tbs oil. When the chicken is almost done, add the oyster and hoisin sauce. Mix well and add the Napa cabbage. When the cabbage is just wilted, it’s done. Divide the stir-fry among the bowls. Top the noodles and stir-fry with a poached egg, and spoon over as much hot broth as you like. Serve immediately.

The Cure-all Soup

One of the most annoying things in the world is to get sick during summer. Not a slight summer cold, mind you. Sore throat, ear infection, coughing, chills…just all around icky-ness. While everyone else was prancing around in tank tops and shorts, all I wanted to do was crawl under my heavy down comforter and hibernate. Then just when I was on the upswing, Sonny came down with it. Ugh.

It's times like these when I wished mom lived nearby (I'm sure I'll retract that statement next week) because I sure could have used a double batch of her cure-all hot and sour soup. Got a cold? Headache? Upset stomach? Nothing like a dose of hot and sour soup to make things alright.

Now days, you can get the bouillon at Asian markets. I have used this in the past, but it required so much doctoring, I figure I could just as well make it from scratch. If you look for recipes for tom yum soup, there are a few things they all have in common: lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, galangal, coriander roots, fish sauce, lime juice. But I will tell you the secret (or two) to make this a stellar soup; something I’ve never found in any recipe: naam prik phao. My mom taught me this and I promise you it makes a huge difference. Another thing mom taught me was to use tamarind puree as well as lime to give this soup its sourness.

One thing to keep in mind is that some people (like mom) like this soup more on the sour side, while some people (like me) like this soup more on the tangy side. There’s also a few additions, like ginger or shrimp paste, depending on whether you plan to use shrimp, tofu or chicken, but I usually just stick to the basic recipe and it all still turns out fine. You may find yourself fiddling a little with the ingredients until you find the right combination.

This recipe makes a lot of soup. Enough to feed about 10 people a small bowl. If it’s too much for your immediate use, freeze some of it for later. Once you get the flavoring right (and before adding the tomatoes or meat), transfer the amount you want to freeze to another pot or large bowl and allow it to cool a bit before freezing. Then when you feel like having some soup later, just reheat, add tomatoes and meat, and you’re ready to go.

Mom’s Cure-all Hot and Sour Soup (aka basic Tom Yum)

• 2.5 tbs naam prik phao
• Thai chilies, to taste (I generally use 2-3)
• 3 coriander roots
• 1 stick lemongrass, white part only
• 4 kaffir lime leaves
• 1 clove garlic
• 4 slices galangal (about the size of half dollars)
• 8 cups chicken stock
• 1/3 cup tamarind puree
• 3 tbs fresh lime juice
• fish sauce, to taste
• 1 tbs sugar, or more to taste (usually use 2-3)
• 2 handfuls of cherry tomatoes or 2 large tomatoes sliced (or more if you like)
• 1 block tofu, 1 lbs shrimp or ¾ lbs sliced chicken (preferably thigh meat)

In a mortar, pound the chilies and garlic until uniformly mashed. Add the coriander roots, galangal and lemongrass and pound just to bruise the lemongrass to release its fragrance. In a hot wok (with or without a little oil, depending on how well seasoned your wok is) add the naam prik phao, the mashed herbs, and the kaffir lime leaves. After about 30 seconds or so add the chicken stock. Heat until warmed. Add the tamarind puree, lime juice, fish sauce and sugar. Adjust the taste by adding more of tamarind puree (for tanginess and sour), lime juice (for sourness), sugar or fish sauce. Once you get the flavor you like, turn down the heat to get a nice simmer and add the cherry tomatoes (I like to simmer up to 30 minutes before adding the tomatoes, but it’s up to you really). After about 5 minutes, add the tofu or meat. If adding shrimp or chicken, do not stir. Simply submerse the meat and allow it to “poach” until done. Serve garnished with a few cilantro leaves. I sometimes like to add some rice to my bowl for a nice hot and sour rice soup. Yum!


Check out Sonny eating hot and sour soup, fishcakes and rice.

Trying Something New

The nice thing about getting farm fresh produce through a service is you don’t have to choose what to purchase. We pick up a large bag of produce once a week at a local park, and there’s always something I wouldn’t normally buy (but will gladly eat). Some people don’t like CSA programs for that reason, but I think it’s a good way to get variation in our diet.

This week we got cauliflower. I don’t even remember the last time I ate cauliflower, much less bought it. I have nothing against it, but I don’t have a burning passion for it either. Of course I could use it in a stir-fry (and I will), but I decided to make a soup too. The result was better than I expected. Sonny even asked for seconds, which made me feel warm and fuzzy inside (or was it the 85º heat?).

Cauliflower Soup

• 1 head cauliflower, florets only
• 4 celery ribs, chopped
• 1 large onion, chopped
• ½ head garlic, crushed
• 1 ½ quarts stock (chicken or veggie)
• Salt and pepper to taste
• ½ to 1 cup heavy cream (optional)
• Finely chopped parsley for garnish (optional)
  

In a large Dutch oven over medium heat, add about 2 tbs olive oil. When hot, but not smoking, add the onion and celery. Sauté the veggies until they are nice and soft. Add the garlic and cauliflower and sauté for about 5 minutes to soften the cauliflower. Don’t let it take on too much color or your soup may end up a funny shade of light brown. Add the stock and bring up to a boil. Cover the pot and turn down the heat to simmer the soup until the cauliflower is soft. When everything is nice and soft, turn off the heat and blend the soup (let it cool slightly if using a conventional blender). I recommend running it through a double mesh strainer to give the end product a nice, smooth texture. Return the strained soup to the heat, and add salt and pepper to taste. If the soup is too thin, add either the cream or some of the strained soup solids back in (up to ¼ cup). Serve warm, sprinkled with the chopped parsley.

Nevermind the Scorching Heat

I know it’s not time for hot soup. The mercury's pushing 90+, but Sonny has been asking for tomato soup and I wanted to make some comfort food for a friend who just had a baby. You know, a two-birds-with-one-stone situation.

Tomato Soup

• 2 large onions, thinly sliced
• 1/3 cup balsamic vinegar
• 10 large tomatoes, seeded and roughly chopped
• 4-6 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
• 1 bunch basil (or 1 healthy handful)
• 2 cups water
• salt and pepper to taste
• honey or sugar (optional)

In a large Dutch oven or other heavy bottom large pot over medium heat, add enough olive oil to cover the bottom of the pot in a thin coat. Add the onions and cook until they are well caramelized. This could take 20 minutes for more. It’s okay if they take on color; just don’t let them burn. Add the vinegar and allow to reduce until almost completely evaporated. Add the garlic, tomatoes, basil and water. Bring to a boil, put the lid on and reduce the heat to a simmer. Simmer for at least 45 minutes. Turn off the heat and allow to cool slightly before blending with a stick blender (or in a regular blender). I always run the soup through a sieve to give a smooth texture (this is optional). If you do this, you can add some of the solids back in to give a thicker texture (try about 1/4 cup). Season the soup well with salt and pepper. If you used sweet onions and tomatoes, you probably won’t have to add honey, but add a little to cut the acidity if you think it needs it. I recommend serving it warm to lukewarm (not piping hot).

I love serving this soup with grilled cheese sandwiches. See that sandwich in the picture? It is made with the best tasting toasting bread I’ve ever had. I got it at Delphina's at the Hollywood Farmer’s Market. It's got polenta and rice, and it’s dense and slightly sweet. Reminds me of the wonderful fresh baked breads I had in Denmark. When toasted, all the different flavors stand out yet complement each other nicely. A little pricey, but worth it for artisan bread.

Liquid Gold

No, I’m not talking about breast milk. I’m talking about the broth used in Thai noodle soup.

Just about everyone knows what Pho is, even if they haven’t actually eaten it before. Well, let me tell you about the Thai version (or at least the one I grew up on). Mom would fill her stockpot with beef bones, coriander roots, garlic, onion, star anise, cinnamon and a splash of soy and fish sauces. She’d skim off the foam every now and then, adjust the seasonings here and there. A few hours later (like about 8), we’d have noodle soup.

When the soup broth is the star ingredient, I think it is worth the effort to make the stock rather than buy it. It can be a time consuming process (mostly just passive waiting), but I try to make enough to freeze some for later use. I’ve added a few more ingredients to get a richer broth.

Asian Beef Stock

• 2 carrots, cut in half and lengthwise
• 10 coriander roots or 4 stalks celery cut into thirds
• 1 onion, quartered
• 1 knob ginger (about 2x2 inch), sliced
• 5-6 cloves garlic, crushed
• 2 star anise
• 1 stick cinnamon
• 1 tbs thick soy sauce
• 2 tbs regular soy sauce
• 1 tbs brown sugar
• 5 lbs beef bones

In a stock pot on medium-high heat, add 1 tbs oil. When hot, add the carrot, coriander/celery, onion, ginger and garlic. Saute until the vegetables start to take color. The more color the veggies take, the more flavor they add to the stock. Add the anise and cinnamon and continue to sauté for about 1-2 (or more) minutes. Just don’t let them burn. Add the sauces and brown sugar and sauté for another minute. Add the beef bones and enough water to cover (if you want to brown the beef bones first, you can do this in a preheated 400º oven until they take on nice color). Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat to low and simmer until about 1/3 of the liquid has evaporated. This could take 4 hours or more, depending on the size of your stockpot. Skim off the foam occasionally.

After the liquid has reduced, turn off the heat and let the stock cool enough to handle. You could cover it and let it sit on the stove for about an hour. Remove the bones and strain the stock (if the bones were meaty, you could save a few and set aside to use in the soup). The finer the sieve, the better. At this point I put the stock in the fridge to cool completely. The fat will rise to the top and the next day I just skim it right off. What’s left is a gelatinous, concentrated stock, probably equaling about 4-6 cups.

For the soup

• Bean sprouts, as much as you like
• ½ bunch cilantro, roughly chopped
• 2-3 green onions, finely sliced
• steak, thinly sliced (I use NY strip or Ribeye)
  
• beef meatballs from my Thai-Viet store
• tripe (optional! But a must for my mother)
• 1 lb vacuum-packed rice noodles or 1 pack dry rice noodles

Start with 2-3 cups stock and add 3-4 cups of water, bring to a boil, cover and then turn down the heat to simmer. Season with salt to taste (you could certainly use fish sauce, but I like to serve that on the side with the soup). If the broth tastes thin, add more stock by the cupful. Freeze any leftover stock for later use (even if you only have 1 cup left). I might add another star anise or cinnamon stick or up to 1 tbs hoisin sauce depending on my mood. The broth should be sufficiently salted and have a hint of sweetness from the caramelized vegetables and spices. If you saved the meaty bones, add that back to the broth. I also like to add beef meatballs, which I buy at my Thai-Viet market.

Like the Vietnamese, we use rice noodles. They can be thin or wide, fresh or dried (don’t confuse them with chow fun noodles though). I like to use the fresh, vacuum-packed noodles because they are more convenient. No pre-soaking required. If you use the dry noodles, soak them until they are just workable, not until they are soft. Boil the noodles for about 15-30 seconds for fresh or up to 1 minute for dry noodles. I do each serving separately. Fish them out using a spider and put them into separate bowls immediately, as they tend to clump up quickly. But don’t worry, they separate nicely when the broth is added. If you’re using bean sprouts, make sure they are washed and boil them for about 30 seconds. Fish them out and put them in the bowls. Put the sliced steak into the bowls on top of the bean sprouts. Ladle hot broth over the steak and add enough to cover the noodles. Don’t forget to give each bowl a couple meatballs and a little braised meat (from the bones). Garnish with the scallions and cilantro.

Noodle soup is always served with condiments so that each person can adjust the flavor to their liking. These should include (brown) sugar, fish sauce, sambal oelek or chopped Thai chillies in vinegar (2-3 chopped chillies, 1/4 cup rice vinegar, 1 tsp fish sauce), fried garlic in oil (1 head chopped garlic fried in about 1-2 inches of oil in a small saucepan), roughly chopped cilantro, finely chopped scallions, lime wedges, and extra bean sprouts.

Remember my post about Pae-lo and at the end of the post, I said to save any leftover broth. Well, now is the perfect time to use it. Pae-lo broth has all the same ingredients found in this beef stock, but it’s made from pork. No matter, it still gives the noodle soup a richer taste than just store-bought stock alone. For each cup of Pae-lo broth, use about 2-3 cups beef stock.