Weekend Wokking: Pumpkin Coconut Creme Brulee

There’s really nothing to say about this dessert, except that it’s absolutely fabulous! Everybody who tastes it will sing your praises. They’ll tell you that you’re a genius. They’ll tell you that your pumpkin coconut crème brulee is probably the best they’ve ever tasted. You’ll even have the die-hard-vanilla-only-crème-brulee purists wrapped around your finger. It’s that good.




Note: I used garam masala because this dessert was destined for an Indian food potluck. You may choose the more traditional spices found in pumpkin pie or Emeril's suggestions.

Pumpkin Coconut Crème Brulee
adapted from Emeril’s recipe

• 1 cup coconut milk
• 1 cup heavy cream
• ¼ cup light brown sugar
• ¼ cup granulated sugar
• ½ tsp garam masala
• 1 cup mashed pumpkin
• 8 egg yolks
• approx 2 tbs raw sugar for the top (I hear granulated works fine too)
  

In a medium saucepan, heat the coconut milk, heavy cream, sugars and garam masala just to the boiling point, stirring frequently.

While the cream is heating, in a large glass or non-reactive bowl, whip the egg yolks until they are pale, about 2 minutes.

Temper the eggs by adding about a cup of the hot cream slowly with vigorous whipping. Add the remaining cream and mashed pumpkin. Whisk well to mix thoroughly.

Strain the mixture through a semi-fine sieve. Don’t skip this step because the pumpkin may have some coarse or gritty bits in it. Divide the custard among eight ½ cup ramekins or a casserole dish that can hold about 4 cups. Place in a water bath (use boiling water), making sure the water goes at least halfway up the sides of the ramekins or casserole. Bake at 300F. The ramekins will take about an hour. It took me 1.5 hours for the larger casserole. These times are approximate. The custard will not be firm like a quiche, but it shouldn't appear runny either. It’s best to use your judgment. If it still looks too wobbly, leave it in for longer, checking every 10 minutes or so.

Once the custard is done, remove it from the oven and place it on a rack to cool to room temperature before sticking it in the fridge to set overnight.

To serve, put the custard in the freezer for at least 30 minutes before caramelizing the sugar on top. If you are going to use a broiler for the job, freeze the custard for 45 minutes to 1 hour, otherwise the custard will be warm and loose, rather than thick and creamy. Trust me, it won’t freeze through. Serve immediately after caramelizing the sugar.


This is my submission to Weekend Wokking (just in the nick of time!), created by Wandering Chopsticks. Precious Pea is hosting this month. Check out the round-up at her site this coming Wednesday to see the other submissions and to get the next secret ingredient. To find out who’s hosting or if you’re interesting in hosting, click here.

Recipe Redux

It was recently brought to my attention that there may be a problem with one of my recipes. After a little troubleshooting, we figured there was some confusion about the type of noodles to use. When there is a special ingredient in a recipe, I normally try to take a picture or post a link so people are somewhat familiar with the item if they want to go purchase it. If there’s any question about an ingredient or substitution or if you have a suggestion, please don’t hesitate to contact me by leaving a comment or emailing me at blazinghotwok(at)gmail(dot)com. I want people to enjoy discovering a new recipe and not get discouraged or frustrated because something didn’t work out!

Okay, sometimes us food bloggers take stuff for granted and assume people know what we are talking about. Or sometimes we aren't good at clarifying, which appears to be the case with the rice noodles. So, it seems only appropriate I explain a little about the rice noodles I use. If you are familiar with the different types, I won't blame you for not reading on. However, maybe you could do me a favor and check out the recipe in question and let me know if it's easier to follow. I put in new tips.

From left to right: semi-fresh rice noodles, rice sticks, fresh rice noodles

I typically use one of three kinds, which can make it a bit confusing. Sometimes they can be interchanged, however, one may be more appropriate than the others for a particular type of recipe. As an example, think about spaghetti alla carbonara. You can substitute fettuccini or linguine, but it wouldn’t work very well with rigatoni, would it? When substitutions can be made, I will indicate it.

For some recipes the best rice noodles to use are the fresh ones, also known here in the States as chow fun noodles. I like to use these noodles for pad se ew, pad kee mao, and chow fun. These noodles are sold in sheets so you can cut them into any width you like. Sometimes they are pre-cut into strips. Both types have been oiled to keep the layers from sticking, although I wonder if that really helps. They can be kind of hard to separate when cold and it’s a little easier if they are at room temperature. Fresh means they are found in the refrigerated section.

There is another type of semi-fresh rice noodle that I like to use for dishes like pad Thai. They are pliable, but not soft. Unlike the fun noodles, they are not oiled and come vacuum packed. They technically don’t require pre-soaking, but they can be hard to separate when hey are cold. I like to put the noodles in lukewarm water while I separate the strands. If you don’t loosen the strands well, they will stay clumped up when you stir-fry them. Make sure to drain them well before using.

Lastly, there are the rice sticks. These are the dried rice noodles commonly used for noodle soups. They are also great to use for pad Thai if you don’t have access to the semi-fresh noodles. If you plan to use them for anything other than soup, they must be soaked. For soup, I simply boil them. The soaking time depends on the brand, the temperature of the water and the age of the noodles. You’ll want to soak them so they are semi-soft, but not completely soft, otherwise they will turn to mush when you stir-fry them. Be aware that dry weight is not the same as hydrated weight. Just to test the difference between the two, I softened 9 oz of dry noodles by pouring boiling water over them for 8 minutes, rinsing with cold water, then draining well. Even before weighing them again, I could see they had expanded a lot, and sure enough, the hydrated weight was just over a pound and a half!!

Before I post a recipe, I generally try it out a couple of times to make sure the results are consistent or to work out the issues from the first attempt(s). Still, mistakes can happen so I wanted to revisit the recipe in question: pad se ew. It’s basically stir-fried rice noodles with egg and soy sauces. Nothing fancy, but quite delicious, especially when dressed up with various condiments. As I said in the original post, this is a fairly versatile dish because you can add whatever vegetables and protein you’d like. For this dish, I always use fresh rice noodles because that was the type of noodle mom always used. However, I wanted to try using the rice sticks because everyone has access to these and I wanted to compare the results.





The top picture is the redo and the bottom picture is the original I did in January. The noticeable differences were color and texture of the noodles. The fresh noodles have a “chewier” texture and are a little thicker and oilier. I definitely prefer the fresh noodles, but using the dry noodles worked out fine. I want to note that the lighter noodles were by no means bland, but I don't think they fried up as well due to less oil. But if you're worried about fat content, using rice sticks is probably the way to go.

There was some concern the sauce proportions were not sufficient for the 1 ½ pounds of noodles, but actually they were okay. I always make a double portion of sauce because heaven forbid there's not enough sauce and I'm running around trying to get ingredients together while the food is cooking. A double portion makes about 7 tbs and for this amount of noodles, I used 4. If you have extra sauce left over, spike it with some chili garlic sauce or sambal and serve as a condiment in case people want to spice up the dish a bit.

Now that you've read this far, I should just tell you I updated the original recipe with notes just so everything is clarified. Enjoy!

Even Though You Didn't Ask for It...Another Ice Cream Post!

I know I just posted an ice cream recipe. A green tea with lemongrass and mint ice cream, to be exact. Well, I’m doing it again. This time it’s Thai tea with coconut milk. I know, two similar recipes in two weeks. Is that a food blog faux pas? If it is, ya’ll better get used to it. I got me an ice cream maker, and there’s no stopping mama now!

As I was farting around the Internet looking for some ice cream inspiration, I came across this Thai tea ice cream. I would have gotten around to making some kind of Thai tea ice cream eventually, being Thai and all, but after running across it, I got a craving. Eventually became pronto. I was intrigued by the idea of using condensed milk, but I didn’t have any on hand. Instead of doing just straight cream, I used coconut milk. I used the guideline 2 egg yolks/cup dairy, and it worked out beautifully (thanks Mike!). What else can I say about this ice cream? Try it. You'll love it, and if you don't you're just plain crazy.



Thai Tea and Coconut Milk Ice Cream
makes about 2 pints

• 6 egg yolks
• ¾ cup sugar
• 2 cups heavy cream
• 1 cup coconut milk
• 2 tsp vanilla
• 1 oz loose Thai tea leaves*(see note) or 5 tea bags

*Note: Loose Thai teas tend to be very fine. It will go right through a strainer, tea infuser or even 5 layers of cheesecloth. I highly recommend using fillable teabags or a tea sock. I prefer the fillable teabags over the tea sock. No cleaning. The teabag can go right into the compost.

In a medium saucepan, heat the cream to just boiling. Add the teabags and allow to steep, covered, for 10 minutes.

In the meantime, in a large bowl, whip the egg yolks with an electric mixer until thick and pale, about 5 minutes. Add the sugar in increments, beating well after each addition for a total of about 3 minutes.

Remove the teabags from the cream, making sure to squeeze out excess liquid. Slowly add the liquid to the egg mixture while mixing with the electric mixer. Return the custard to the pot, and heat over medium-low heat, with frequent stirring, until it reaches about 175°F or until it coats the back of your spoon without running off. Strain the custard into a large bowl. Don’t push the debris through the strainer, unless you like soft scrambled eggs in your ice cream. At last, add the coconut milk and vanilla and mix well. Chill the custard, covered, until it’s cold, preferably overnight. Churn the chilled custard in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

If you like tea infused creamy concoctions, then this Thai tea creme brulee may pique your interest.

Spicy Lamb Sausage and Egg Skillet

So did ya’ll run into the kitchen to make spicy lamb sausage? No? Well maybe if I show you what you can do with it, you’ll feel more inspired to try it??



What is it you ask? Why, it's a skillet with lamb sausage, sauteed red peppers and onions in a wonderfully spiced tomato sauce topped with eggs that are poached in the sauce. In a word, it's delicious. It's also fast to prepare; you could do it in about 30 minutes. And it's the perfect communal meal. Just put the skillet on the table along with a plate of naan-like flatbread and let everyone take a share.

I won’t be disappointed if you don’t make your own merguez and I know it’s hard to find. Here’s a tip, you can substitute fresh chorizo (not the funky Mexican variety in the plastic casing and not the fully cured Spanish variety used in paella) and you’ll still have a tasty dinner on the table.


Spicy Lamb Sausage and Egg Skillet
Feeds 4

• ½ pound merguez
  
• 1 tbs ghee* (see note)
• 1 tsp cumin seeds
• 2 3-inch sticks cinnamon
• 1 medium onion, sliced
• 1 red bell pepper, sliced
• 1 14.5-oz can diced tomatoes (recommend fire-roasted)
• 4 eggs
• 1-2 tbs chopped Italian parsley for garnish (cilantro will work as well)
• Salt and pepper to taste

*Note: Ghee is just clarified butter. It gives a wonderful buttery taste to dishes and can be purchased at Indian specialty stores. Or you can do like I did and make it yourself. I haven't used it as body oil (nor do I plan to), but you are welcome to try if you want to smell like buttered popcorn. Click here to see how it’s done. Theoretically, ghee doesn't need to be stored in the fridge, but I prefer to for my own peace of mind. If you don’t want to use ghee for this recipe, just use your favorite oil.

Form the sausage into small balls. Using an ovenproof skillet, melt the ghee and when hot, fry the sausage until brown (doesn’t need to be cooked through at this point). Remove and set aside.

In the same skillet add the cumin seeds and cinnamon and fry for about 10 to 15 seconds then add the onion and bell pepper. Sautee until soft and starting to brown, about 10 minutes. Return the sausage and any accumulated juices back to the pan then add the diced tomatoes (I like to puree the tomatoes before adding so they aren’t so chunky). Cook until the sausage is cooked through and the sauce has thickened slightly, maybe 5 minutes. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. I also like to add a pinch of sugar to cut the acidity when I use canned tomatoes.

Once the seasonings are to your liking, carefully crack the eggs into the skillet. Place the skillet under the broiler just until the egg whites are set, about 3 to 5 minutes. The yolks should still be soft. Sprinkle the eggs with salt and pepper and garnish with the chopped parsley. Serve with flatbread or any other crusty bread of your choice.

Quiche, quiche, quiche and more quiche

One of the things I’ve come to look forward to each holiday season is the company potluck. No sign-up sheet. Just a notice telling us to bring whatever we’d like to share with our colleagues. With a good mix of cultures represented, this open invitation leads to an interesting and tasty mix of food. This year there was honey glazed ham, smoked albacore tuna dip, sushi, cold buckwheat noodles, Brazilian black bean and meat stew, teriyaki chicken thighs, pigs in a blanket, Buffalo wings, bean dip, and Shepard’s pie, just to name a few. I brought three different kinds of quiche: spinach and smoked Gouda, caramelized onion and mozzarella, and honey ham and extra sharp cheddar.

Spinach and smoked Gouda. The smokiness of the cheese compliments the spinach very well. Smoked cheeses can be too smoky for some people. You may want to use half smoked cheese and half mild cheese, like mozzarella or havarti.

Quiche is one of those foods I like to fall back on when I need something to bring to a potluck. It can be made a day or two in advance, it can be served hot or cold, and it’s easy to transport. The recipe I use is so easy (found on Food Network years ago) and even if you over-bake it a bit, the result is still smooth and delicious. I’ve tried this with many different fillings and everything has worked, so I encourage you to experiment. And it’s scalable; no need to make each quiche separately.

Caramelized onion and mozzarella quiche. This is my favorite filling. The sweetness of the onions goes so well with creaminess of the eggs.

Basic Quiche

• 4 eggs
• ½ cup mayonnaise
• 1 cup half and half (evaporated milk or even whole milk is okay)
• 2 tbs flour
• ½ tsp salt (more or less to taste depending on your filling)
• shredded cheese (as little as 1 large handful to 4 oz)
• filling of your choice (well-drained cooked spinach, caramelized onions, sautéed leeks, sautéed and drained kale, ham, sautéed mushrooms, etc)
• 1 unbaked piecrust, recipe below (or store-bought is fine)

In a large bowl, beat the eggs with the mayonnaise, half and half, flour and salt until nice and creamy.

In the unbaked piecrust, lay your filling and most of the cheese. Make sure the filling is well drained. Pour the egg mixture over the filling and top with the remaining cheese. Bake in a 350° oven for about 35 to 45 minutes, or until the center is set. I have two pan sizes and the smaller one takes exactly 35 minutes and the larger exactly 45. Don’t worry if the quiche puffs up; it will deflate as it cools. If you see a small crack or two, it’s probably done and will be fine.

Allow to cool for at least 10 minutes before slicing and serving.

This basic piecrust is good for sweet or savory pies. This recipe makes enough for two crusts. If you just want to use one, the other can be frozen. If possible, roll out the crust and place in the pie pan to freeze. Then when you need to use it, just fill it and pop it in the oven. If that’s not possible, freeze it as a flatten ball and thaw in the fridge before rolling it out.

Basic Pie Crust
makes 2 crusts

• 2 cups flour
• ½ tsp salt
• 2/3 cups cold butter, cut into smallish squares
• up to 1/3 cup cold water

If you can make this in a food processor, it will come together much faster, but if you don’t have a food processor, good old elbow grease will do. Pulse the flour, salt and butter until you get a course, but uniform mixture. Slowly add the water, one tablespoon at a time while pulsing until the dough comes together. Don’t over process. It should hold together well without being sticky to your hands or the work surface. As soon as it comes together dump it onto a work surface and knead it 3 or 4 times. Divide it in half, wrap each half in plastic wrap and refrigerate for about 30 minutes to chill the dough. Once it’s chilled, roll it out until it fits your pie pan. Trim the excess or make a decorative border.

Clean-Out-the-Freezer-Challenge Day 2

Today’s freezer item was Isaan-style sausage. We finished the last three links from a batch mom brought with her the last time she visited in September. To go with the sausages, I made Chinese-style scrambled eggs with shrimp and sautéed broccoli on the side.

No, these sausages aren't burnt.

The first food I probably learned to cook (not including rice) was a basic Thai-style omelet (which always turned out to be scrambled eggs). It was just eggs, fish sauce and green onions. If I was in the mood, I’d add sliced tomatoes. I loved it with sticky rice and naam prik phao.

The basic Chinese omelet (scrambled eggs) is just as easy. Just replace the fish sauce with oyster sauce. When I worked at a Chinese take-out joint, I often asked my boss to make this for my dinner. He made it extra special by adding shrimp. Served with steamed rice and hot chili oil, there really was nothing better.

Whenever I make this dish, I like to brine the shrimp. The brine recipe I use comes from Alton Brown. It’s quite simple to do and it doesn’t take long to get a good effect—maybe 20-30 minutes for medium to large shrimp. The huge jumbo shrimp take about 45 minutes. Brining adds a little flavor to the shrimp and it complements the eggs so well. It also prevents the shrimp from drying out. Really it’s completely up to you, though.

Chinese Scrambled Eggs with Shrimp
Serves 2 adults (or 4 if part of a multi-course meal)

• 4 eggs
• 1 tbs oyster sauce
• approx. ½ tbs soy sauce (low sodium okay)
• 1 tsp rice vinegar
• 3 green onions, sliced thinly on the diagonal
• ½ pound medium (21/25s) raw shrimp, peeled and de-veined
• 1 handful of cilantro, roughly chopped for garnish

For the brine (optional)

• ¼ cup sugar
• ¼ cup salt
• 1 cup water
• 1 pound ice

If you’re going to brine the shrimp, dissolve the sugar and salt in the water (on the stove top or in the microwave). When the solids are dissolved, pour them into a large bowl with the ice. When the ice melts, add the shrimp and soak for about 20-30 minutes. It’s important to wait until the ice melts, even if the solution is cold. Otherwise the brine will be too concentrated, resulting in very salty shrimp. When the shrimp are done soaking, rinse them briefly (you don’t want to undo all your work) and pat them dry thoroughly. They should be used immediately.

Just before you’re ready to cook, beat the eggs with the oyster sauce, soy sauce and vinegar until frothy.

Heat up a wok over medium-high heat. Add about 3 or 4 tbs oil by drizzling down the sides of the wok. You want to coat the sides to keep the eggs from sticking. Add the green onions and allow them to sizzle undisturbed for about 20 seconds. Add the shrimp and allow to sizzle undisturbed for another 20 seconds. Add the eggs. Avoid overworking them. You want them to get a little browned on the bottom. The eggs should set at about the same time the shrimp are done (maybe 4 minutes or so). Garnish with the chopped cilantro and serve over steamed rice with hot chili oil.

This is good for breakfast too!