Meat and Potatoes

I don’t know the origins of massaman curry, but it seems to be part Thai, part Indian. The paste contains typical Thai ingredients, such as lemon grass and galangal. Cardamom, cloves and cinnamon are the Indian influences. Most often the curry is made with beef, but lamb makes it extra special because the flavor of the meat pairs so well with the Indian spices.

This recipe was adapted from my favorite Thai cookbook.

Massaman Curry with Lamb

• 1 4-inch cinnamon stick
• 5 cardamom pods, slightly crushed
• 5 cloves
• 2 tbs massaman curry paste (recipe follows, but store bought is also okay)
• 1 ¾ lamb meat for stewing, cubed
• 19oz can coconut milk (not lowfat)
• 2 cups beef (or lamb) stock
• 2-3 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed
• 1 knob of ginger (about the size of an adult thumb), grated with juices
• 3 tbs fish sauce
• 2-3 tbs brown sugar
• 3 tbs tamarind puree (explained in this post)
• about 2/3 cup roasted peanuts

In a frying pan or skillet over medium-high heat, use about 1 tbs oil to brown the meat (be sure to season with salt). Remove and set aside. Turn down the heat to medium-low, add another tbs oil and fry cinnamon, cardamom pods, and cloves until fragrant. Add the curry paste, and ginger. Adjust the heat if necessary to keep the paste from burning. Gently fry the paste for about 1 minute. Then turn off the heat and set aside.

In a Dutch oven or large heavy bottom pot over medium-high heat, put about 2/3 cup of the coconut cream and cook it until it separates (it will start to pop, but put the lid on until it settles down). Be sure to stir it occasionally to prevent burning. Allow it to reduce for about 5-10 minutes, then add the fried paste and spices. Cook the paste for about 2 minutes, then add the remaining coconut milk, fish sauce, sugar, tamarind puree, stock and meat (with juices). Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cover. The meat will require about 1 to 1.5 hours to cook. About 30 minutes before the meat is tender, add the potatoes and peanuts. Simmer until the potatoes are just tender (and hopefully the meat will also be done). Don’t overcook the potatoes or you might get mashed potato curry.

Allow the curry to sit for at least 10 minutes before serving with jasmine rice. The flavor should be slightly sweet and slightly sour. Season with fish sauce to taste. I also like to sprinkle a few more peanuts on top. This curry is even better the day after.

Massaman Curry Paste

• 2 dried long red chillies (fresh is okay too), seeded
• 1 stalk lemon grass, whites only, finely sliced
• 5 cloves
• knob of galangal (about the size of an adult thumb)
• 3 2-inch cinnamon sticks
• seeds from 6 cardamom pods
• ½ tsp nutmeg
• 6 cloves garlic
• 4 Asian shallots (or 1 regular shallot), roughly chopped
• 5 cilantro roots (or a bunch of stems)
• 1 tsp shrimp paste

Put everything, except the cinnamon sticks, into a food processor. Add about ¼ to 1/3 cup peanut or vegetable oil, and puree until you get a uniform mixture. There should be enough paste for 3 portions (about 2-3 tbs each). I normally freeze down the portions with 1 cinnamon stick each. Of course you could just add the cinnamon sticks to the processor when you puree, but if it doesn’t get finely processed, you’ll have cinnamon shards in your curry (feels like tree bark in your food). Yes, you could use pre-ground cinnamon, but make sure it’s fairly fresh and not the stuff from Thanksgiving two or three years ago. I guestimate ½ to 1 tsp is sufficient. The paste can be stored in the freezer for up to 3 months.

Green Curry

Green curry is my favorite Thai curry. Whenever I visit my parents, I request it. In fact, mom will usually have a pot waiting for me. Interestingly, I rarely order it when I eat at Thai restaurants because it’s usually served too sweet and thick for my taste.

To buy or to make curry paste, that is the question. Mom usually buys it. I make my own, for a couple reasons. 1) It really doesn’t take much time because I usually have all the ingredients on hand. I make a big enough batch to last a month or so. 2) I know what’s going into it and how old it is. This might just be me, but it’s a little unsettling when the manufacturers have to say “processed under the strictest hygienic conditions.” I would recommend trying to make your own at least once.

Green curry paste:

• 1 tsp ground coriander
• 1 tsp ground cumin
• 8-10 small green chillies, seeded
• 2 lemon grass stalks, whites only and finely sliced
• 1x1/4 inch (or there abouts) piece of galangal finely chopped
• 5 kaffir lime leaves, finely sliced
• 5 cloves of garlic, finely sliced
• 4 Asian shallots or the equivalent amount of regular shallot
• 5 coriander roots or 1 bunch of coriander stems, finely chopped
• handful of Thai basil leaves or sweet basil leaves
• 2 tsp shrimp paste in oil or 1 tsp concentrated shrimp paste

Keep in mind: 1)Despite what people say, ginger can not really be substituted for galangal, which has a slight lemony flavor. I suppose you could use ginger and up the amount of lemon grass by 1 stalk or add an additional 2-3 lime leaves. I’ve never done this, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. Thai-Viet grocers usually carry fresh galangal, and they will definitely have dried galangal. You can reconstitute it in water before chopping. If you can get fresh, then I would buy a bunch, slice it and freeze it in portions. I also do this with my lemon grass, chillies, and lime leaves. 2) It’s hard to find coriander roots. I once found it at New Seasons (local to Portland), and I think they may have it at Whole Foods. It is definitely worth finding, but I just use the coriander stalks instead. 3) If you are afraid of the shrimp paste, start with only 1 or half a tsp (depending on the type you’re using). It’s like cooking with anchovies, which some people are afraid to use for fear of a fishy taste. 4)Asian shallots are the size of pearl onions.

I like to start by chopping up all the ingredients very finely. The old fashion way to make the paste is to pound the ingredients until you have something that resembles the consistency of Elmer’s white glue paste. Honestly that will take forever, and I’ve never ever been able to achieve this by pounding (which I did for about 20 minutes!). What I do is throw everything into a food processor and add about ¼ cup of peanut oil (or vegetable oil), then puree until I get something that resembles thick pesto. If you’re going to use a processor, you don’t have to go through the trouble of chopping everything meticulously, except maybe the galangal, lemon grass and lime leaves. These things are quite fibrous and may cause some food processors to stall or you’ll get a chunky half-paste. Don’t stress if your paste doesn’t resemble the store bought stuff. What you should strive for is something that resembles the consistency of thick pesto. Usually this recipe makes enough paste for 3 or 4 uses. I freeze the stuff in 2-3 tbs portions.

If you want to use it for marinading, start with one portion (about 2-3 tbs) paste and add 2 tbs brown sugar, 3 tbs coconut milk (optional) and about ¼ cup low sodium soy sauce. I allow chicken pieces (with bone and skin) to marinade for as little as 2 hours up to 8 hours for a whole bird.

Before you attempt this recipe for green curry, please read the following disclaimer (and the editor’s letter on page 14 in the March 2007 issue of Saveur). I have never measured any of the ingredients before. I tried really hard to get a working recipe, but really it’s a guideline. You may like it sweeter or saltier. Let your taste buds lead you.

Green curry (serves 4):

• 2 ½ cups coconut milk (not low fat, you’ll need at least 2/3 cup cream)
• 2 tbs green curry paste (homemade or store bought)
• 1tsp brown sugar
• 2 tbs fish sauce
• 1 tbs sliced galangal
• 5 kaffir lime leaves
• 1 cup chicken stock
• 3-4 boneless, skinless chicken thigh, sliced (pork is also commonly used)
• bamboo shoots, well rinsed and drained
• other veggies such as sliced red bell pepper, green beans, etc
• ½ cup half and half
• Handful of basil leaves, roughly torn.

In a heavy bottom large pot on medium heat, cook 1 cup coconut cream/milk until it separates. This may take 15 minutes. Then continue to cook for about 5 more minutes with frequent stirring to prevent burning. The volume of the liquid will be greatly reduced. Add the curry paste and fry for about 2 minutes. Stir as needed to prevent burning. Add the rest of the coconut milk, sugar, fish sauce, lime leaves, galangal and chicken stock. Let it simmer for about 5 minutes, then check seasonings. Add more sugar or fish sauce to taste. When you’re happy with the taste, add the bamboo shoots and any veggies that may take longer to cook (like green beans). After a couple minutes, add the chicken and remaining veggies, spreading the chicken out in the sauce. Close the lid for 7 minutes to let the chicken cook. If the chicken needs more time, give it a gentle stir and let it cook until done. My mom is convinced that too much stirring will dry out the meat. After you turn off the heat, add the half and half and basil leaves, and give it a gentle stir. Let the curry sit for 5-10 minutes to let the flavors develop, then readjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve with jasmine rice.